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2005 saturn aura9/5/2023 ![]() ![]() Untill you see bubbles or hear a bubbling sound and immediatly shut the truck off. Fluid will start pumping out the tube into the jug. I tape a big nut as a weight on the end of the tube to keep it in the jug, if you have aĦ) Start the truck. Radiator support and out the front of the truck and into a gallon or larger jug. Clear gas line works great, but you can use almost any plastic or vinylĥ) Clamp the tubing onto the fitting you put in the radiator and run the tubing over the You will need about 2 or 3 feet of 3/8 clear plastic It is and odball fitting size on our newer trucks, and some just stick the tubing in the hole and hold it, a little messier but it works. If any at all, because its higher than the transmission.Ĥ) Screw a short fitting into the radiator that you can attach a piece of tubing to. Than 10000 you can skip ahead to #3, although its always safer to change the filterĪnd clean and check the pan for particles or clutch pieces (not a good sign!)Ģ) Add 3 or 4 qts new fluid to bring it to the full mark on dipstick.ģ) Remove the upper transmission line from the radiator, only very little fluid will drip, (If you jump ahead and get the fitting in and pump out the first 3-4 qts before you drop the pan it will be empty and much cleaner to do the filter change) If you have less I used to change the fluid in my race tranny every 20 runs, and this is a great time saver.ġ) If you have over 10000 miles since the filter was last changed, drop the pan, clean itĬompletly, change the filter and bolt back up with a new gasket. I'll pass along a great trick I learned from my drag racing days to change all the tranny fluid in the transmissiom, converter and cooler. Hope you find it useful - I did ! By the way, get the fitting and don't hold it in by hand as mentioned as an option. I found a brass hose barb fitting that went into where the top trans line goes into radiator. This is using the pump in the trans to push out all of the old fluid. This is not a trans flush which is probably what you've heard to avoid. Its unnerving to do it the first time but after I got started it worked like a charm and was easy. Something I read on another board and saved. This technique uses 4 less quarts than a triple pan drain and fill and leaves you with almost 100 % new fluid instead of 87% with a triple pan drain: So my question is this: is this one of those situations where it was probably a one-time thing and I shouldn't worry too much, or should I be actively trying to find out the source of the problem? I'm very fond of this vehicle and hate to see her ill.There is a technical service bulletin on the Amsoil web page (TSB: DT-) and here is another reference on a ATF service. This is the first problem I've had with this car besides when the battery died, but it was at least 4 years old, possibly older, and it was obviously bulging. Check engine light for an emission systems problem, I don't remember the specific code So I parked it in the garage and waited an hour, still started fine and did again two hours after that, still no problem. I drove it around for a bit and everything seems to be fine. The general consensus was to jump it, so we did and it started albeit not very smoothly. ![]() I just replaced the battery less than six months ago. I can hear the fuel pump turning on like normal. All the dash lights came on, everything else seemed to work fine. I turned the key and it cranked like normal but wouldn't start. But when I went to start it this evening, it wouldn't start. It started fine this morning when I moved it. I have a 2005 Vue 3.5L AWD that wouldn't start today. Any help for this non-mechincally inclined girl would be greatly appreciated! Hello Everyone! I'm at my wits end with vehicles this week. ![]()
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